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I’ve always heard people say that when you’ve grown up eating your mother’s meatloaf, no other meatloaf recipe will taste “right” or even good. I guess my mom (or dad, actually, as he did most of the cooking) didn’t make enough meatloaf when I was a kid because I really don’t have a preference for “her” recipe. I don’t even know if my parents have “their” meatloaf recipe. In any case, this is good meatloaf. It’s flavorful, juicy, uncomplicated, and (this is most important) is better as a leftover than it is the day it’s made. It’s GREAT for meatloaf sandwiches, which if you ask me is the best reason to make meatloaf in the first place.

I’ve made a slight departure from the traditional meatloaf meat mixture and used lamb in place of veal. I think it adds a more complex flavor, it’s cheaper than veal, and you won’t feel as guilty. Though really, I’m not sure why I feel less guilty eating baby sheep than I do eating baby cows. Regardless, it’s delicious. Make it tonight! 


Adapted from The New Best Recipe 

 
 

This Hobo Monday, we're taking a picnic. 
We're bringing: 

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Meatloaf Sandwiches ($2.15 each, 1/2 sandwich per person)
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Spinach Salad ($2 for the spinach, cost of the dressing is negligible)
Passion Tea Lemonade ($.50 for 16 oz of lemonade on sale at Whole Foods, $.50 for the tea) 
Smitten Kitchen's Blueberry Boy Bait ($2.53 for 4 slices)

Total: $9.83 to serve 4
 
 
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Oh my goodness do I love meatloaf sandwiches. It’s two comfort foods combined into one hybrid ULTIMATE comfort food. It’s MEATLOAF in a SANDWICH.

If that weren’t enough, we’re topping it with wine-glazed caramelized onions. The flavor, my friends, will bring you to your knees and make you weep.

This is great food for a picnic – it doesn’t require much prep, provided you had meatloaf for dinner last night, you can eat it without utensils, and it’s good at room temperature. 

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You will need:

4 ½ inch thick slices of meatloaf
2-4 large lettuce leaves
4 slices bread
dollop mayo
squeeze Dijon mustard
splash lemon juice
1 onion
large splash leftover wine
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Cut the onion in half pole-to-pole. Remove the skin and slice in half-moons as thinly as you can. 

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Heat a small amount of oil in a pan, then cook the onions over medium-high heat until they have softened and picked up a bit of color. After 5 or 10 minutes, splash in a few tablespoons of wine and stir. When all the wine has evaporated, cook for another minute or two stirring frequently. Remove from pan and set aside. 

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In a small bowl, mix the mayo, mustard, and lemon juice. Spread on each slice of the bread (toast the bread first if you like). Place 1 or 2 leaves of lettuce on each of 2 slices of bread, then two slices of meatloaf, then divide the onions between the two sandwiches. Top with another slice of bread. Cut in half diagonally and serve. 

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Whenever Eric and I make Thai or Indian food, we always forget to start the rice. We usually realize it about 10 minutes before the rest of dinner is ready, causing us to swear profusely and throw the rice and water in the rice cooker. Because we prefer brown rice over white, forgetting usually sets our dinner back a good 30 or 40 minutes. Recently I bought some pre-cooked frozen rice that’s been waiting in the freezer to rescue us from our tragically delayed dinner. Oddly, its presence seems to serve as a reminder to me to put the rice in the rice cooker and I haven’t needed to used the frozen rice. I say all this as a way of leading into my point: make sure you start the rice before you do anything else for this dish. It holds well and you can’t hurry it.

Poaching is a great treatment for fish, especially fish that has a tendency to get a bit dry. The small amount of fat in the coconut milk keeps everything lovely and moist, and as long as you cook at a simmer rather than a boil it you will be hard-pressed to overcook it. The broth is fragrant and full of flavor, but not too spicy to serve to your Aunt Edna who gives you a shifty eye when you mention Thai food. The best part is that it all comes together in about 20 minutes. Provided you start the rice on time, of course. 

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You will need:

4 6-ounce halibut (or other fish you like) fillets
1 can light coconut milk
1 quart chicken broth
4 shallots, minced
1 T red curry paste (I use the Thai Kitchen brand because it’s not too spicy – it’s widely available. Use whatever you can find.)
1 1/3 cups brown rice
9 or 10 ounces baby spinach
Juice of 1 lime, freshly squeezed
Fresh cilantro
2 scallions, sliced thinly



Method:
START THE RICE. Place 1 1/3 cups rice along with 2 2/3 cups water and a heavy pinch of salt into a rice cooker and turn it on to cook.
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Pour about 1 T olive oil into a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots until they begin to brown and smell really good. Stir in the curry paste and cook briefly, about 30 seconds, until it smells incredible. Whisk in the coconut milk and then the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. 

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While the poaching liquid is heating up, place the spinach into a large glass bowl. Add 2-3 tablespoons of water and microwave for a minute on high. Remove the spinach from the microwave, stir or toss it a bit, then microwave for another minute. Divide into four bowls and set aside. 

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When the poaching liquid is hot, place the fish fillets in it. Put the lid on and simmer until the fish is cooked through, 7-15 minutes depending on size and thickness of fish. When fish is just cooked through, stir in green onions and lime juice then remove from heat. 

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Scoop about 1 cup of cooked rice into each of the bowls, then place one cooked fish fillet on each bed of rice and spinach. Ladle the poaching liquid over the fish, about 1 1/3 cups per bowl. Garnish with minced cilantro and serve immediately. 

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Leftovers keep well in the fridge for a few days, but should be re-heated in the broth. 
 
 
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This recipe is adapted from an idea I stole from Greg Frost. I met Greg in the first class I took at UW during August of 2002. It was a drama class with a nutty tyrant of a professor who refused to go barefoot even though she made us do so and yelled at me to “just learn to take a goddamn note!” when I asked her a question about a note I didn’t understand. At one point the class was playing some sort of movement game and Greg stood up quickly and whacked my face with the back of his head. I ended up with a HUGE fat lip. Seven years (God, has it really been SEVEN YEARS?) later, I think he’s finally made it up to me with this recipe. It’s very easy to make and is wonderfully crisp and refreshing. Sure, it’s a little more complicated than mixing a can with water – but it’s not something you can find in the stores and it makes a lovely non-alcoholic drink to serve to guests at a barbecue or to take with you on a picnic. And it would definitely take the sting out of a fat lip. 

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You will need: 
1 can lemonade concentrate
1 cucumber
water

Equipment:
Pitcher
Blender
Sieve 

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Dump the lemonade concentrate into your pitcher. Fill the can with water twice and pour into the blender carafe.

Cut the cucumber into pieces, reserving several very thin slices, and place in the blender. Blend until pureed, about 30 seconds. 
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Place the strainer on top of the pitcher and slowly pour the liquid from the blender through it. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, press on the solids in the strainer to eke out all the liquid you can.

Mix two more cans of water into the pitcher and stir to combine. Serve very cold garnished with reserved cucumber slices. 
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Note: This also mixes very well with Midori if you want to punch it up a bit. Yum... 
 
 
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This is a great dessert for entertaining. You should make it a few hours in advance, but it can be served either chilled or at room temperature so it’s pretty low-maintenance. It’s made in two stages: first the crust is baked, then the filling is added and the whole tart is baked again. This is 1/3 of my summer entertaining menu; I pair it with roasted chicken and broiled asparagus with balsamic reduction for an easy dinner that’s sure to impress. Raspberries are in season now so don’t delay making this tart. I’ve adapted David Leibovitz’s Tart Dough a la Francaise to fit an 11” tart pan. The filling is adapted from a Cook’s Illustrated recipe. 

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You will need:

For the crust:
4.5 ounces butter
1 ½ T olive oil
4 ½ T water
1 ½ T sugar
225 grams (7.5 ounces) all-purpose flour

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For the filling:
8 T butter (1 stick)
2 eggs
¾ C sugar
heavy pinch salt
½ T vanilla extract
½ T raspberry liqueur
1 T lemon juice
3 T flour
3 T heavy cream
1 pint fresh raspberries
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To make the crust:

Heat the oven to 410 degrees. Place the butter, olive oil, water, and sugar in an oven-safe bowl. When the oven is heated, place the bowl in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. 
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Remove the bowl from the oven, place on a heat-proof surface, and stir the flour into the hot butter mixture. Be careful as the butter might spatter a bit and it will definitely sizzle and bubble initially. 
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Dump the dough into an 11” tart pan with a removable bottom. When the dough has cooled off enough to touch, press it out into the pan and up the sides with your hands. Dock the dough with a fork (this means to poke small holes into it all over) and bake in the 410 degree oven for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. 
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For the filling:
  
Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a light-colored saucepan, melt the butter and cook, swirling intermittently, over medium heat until it’s brown and toasty around the edges and smells nutty and delicious. Pour the melted butter into a heat-proof bowl and set aside. 
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In another bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the sugar and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Add the flour, whisk, then slowly add the vanilla, liqueur, lemon juice, and cream while whisking. Slowly pour in the butter (it should now be cool enough to touch) and whisk until the mixture is homogenous. 
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Place the tart shell (still in the tart pan) on a cookie sheet. In the tart shell, place the berries evenly. I start in the middle and work outward in concentric rings. 
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Slowly pour the custard batter over the berries, taking care not to pour too quickly lest you move the berries around. Bake for 30 minutes, rotating halfway through. The tart is done when it is set and the filling is golden brown on the surface. Cool for several hours, then remove from tart pan and serve. An 11” tart pan will serve 12, for a 9” pan cut the recipe by 2/3, using one egg plus one white and 6 T butter. A 9” tart pan will serve 8. 
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C’est delicieux!! 
 
Orange Altonius 06/06/2009
 
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The heat has finally broken here in Seattle. We’ve returned to our regularly scheduled programming – overcast mornings, sunny afternoons in the 70s, drizzles in the evening and cooler temperatures overnight. It’s much more civilized and we’ve all recommenced wearing pants. If you’re living somewhere that it’s hot – or even if you’re not – you’ll love this sweet and creamy blended drink.

The recipe is adapted from one given on Alton Brown's show Good Eats. I’ve adjusted the measurements to make a full-blender batch, which serves 4 if you’re feeling generous or 2 if you’re thirsty. 

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You will need:

Juicing Oranges
2 T Powdered Sugar
1 t Vanilla extract
2 C Milk (whole is best)

Specialty Equipment:
Juicer (hand or electric)
Ice cube tray

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Juice enough oranges to get 17 fluid ounces of juice. The number of oranges you need for this will vary depending on the type of orange, its size, and how ripe it is. When I made this recipe to take the pictures it took 10 small ones, but earlier this week I used 8 medium-sized oranges. 
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Reserve 4 fluid ounces (1/2 cup) fresh juice, then pour the rest into an ice cube tray and freeze until solid, at least 2 hours.

When the juice is solid, empty the cubes into a blender. Add the milk, vanilla, powdered sugar, and reserved non-frozen orange juice and blend. Serve garnished with an orange wedge. 
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Too Damn Hot 06/05/2009
 
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It’s hot here in Seattle. Damn hot. Today temperatures peaked at over 90 degrees which may be fine if you live in a place like California or Arizona where every house has air conditioning, but here in Seattle only the grocery stores and movie theatres are climate-controlled. When it gets hot like this the only thing to do is lower the blinds (to reflect the sun), open the windows, turn on a fan and lie around in your underwear drinking cold beverages. To that end, we’ve been drinking wine cocktails. They’re a little bit boozy, cool and refreshing, but there’s not enough alcohol to cause problems with dehydration and hangovers. 

I picked up a bottle of Lillet a few weeks ago and we’ve been sipping our way though it in the evenings. Lillet is an aperitif wine that is sold in wine shops and upscale grocery stores. This cocktail is slightly sweet, a bit sour, and lovely and bubbly and cool. There’s less alcohol in it than in most traditional cocktails, so we’ve been able to enjoy a glass as we make our dinner without feeling completely squiffy. 

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You will need:

Lillet
Cointreau (or Triple Sec)
Lemon juice
Sparkling water (chilled)
Raspberries (to garnish)

I use a measure that is .75 fluid ounces. If you have a jigger, the small side probably holds that much. Mix 1 part Lillet, 1 part Cointreau, 1 part lemon juice, and 4 to 5 parts sparkling water. Serve in a champagne flute garnished with 2 raspberries. Best if very cold. 
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One of the most difficult challenges for me as a cook is preparing a meal with multiple dishes and ensuring that everything finishes at the right time. It's frustrating to spend hours in the kitchen, only to have the mashed potatoes finished 45 minutes before your roast comes out of the oven. 

Typically when I'm doing a large meal like Thanksgiving, I plan out the timing in advance. I start with when I want to serve dinner and work backward. For example, if dinner is at 7:00 then the chicken needs to come out of the oven at 6:45 so it has 15 minutes to rest. This means I need to put it in the oven at 5:15 because it roasts for 90 minutes. If the chicken needs to go into the oven at 5:15, I need to start browning it at 5:00. 

When I'm doing a large meal, I'll schedule out the big things that take a long time, then look at the pockets of time I can prep other dishes. The only trouble I run into is remembering to start everything at its scheduled time. Enter the iPhone. 
Using the calendar feature, I set myself "appointments" with an alarm at the times that I needed to perform various tasks in the kitchen. For example, at 5:15 my phone told me to "put chicken in oven" and at 6:15 I set another reminder to "remove lid from chicken." My only complaint is that the alarm can't be set to go off at the exact time of an appointment - the closest you can get is 5 minutes before. I got around this by setting the appointments for 5 minutes after, then setting the alarm to ring 5 minutes before. Another work-around would be to set all the appointments at the correct time the next day, and then set the alarm for 1 day before. 
It takes a bit of effort to plan everything out and set your phone to alert you, but I think you'll find that the resulting organization is more than worth the effort. You'll be able to get your entire dinner on the table at the same time, and you won't forget to start the rice! 
 
 
Once again, my dad George: 

The worst ‘milkshake’ I ever had was in Berlin in 1973.  We were desperate for a taste of home so we stopped at a Wimpy’s Burger.  This was before there was a McDonald’s on every block and the Wimpy’s looked reassuringly franchised.  (Wimpy?  Remember Popeye?  Wimpy was his fat sidekick who would obsequiesly snivel, “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday, for a hamburger today.”  Anyone under 50 may have to Wiki that.)  Anyway, somebody thought that would be a good basis for a burger restaurant and franchised it.  And the burgers might have been OK, I don’t really remember.  What I do remember is that the milk shake came out in a glass.  And it was milk, shaken.  We tasted it again.  It was just milk with bubbles that could only have come from vigorous shaking.  All we could visualize was the night staff standing in the back, poring over a German-English dictionary, shrugging, and shaking some milk for all they were worth.   

Let’s be honest, I steal most of my recipes.  I think we all do.  How many people actually make up something new?  Not many, I’d guess.  (Of course, there was my highly original Pickled Beet Whipped Cream, which, contrary to the scornful derision of my family, wasn’t that bad.) 

Aunt Joyce, a master cook herself, once told me that there were no secrets.  Everything was in a cookbook somewhere.  I mean, with 6 billion people on the planet eating two or three meals a day, that’s a lot of food and people talk.  

But every so often I think I come up with something myself.  Now, this may be a nice bit of self-delusion.  There’s a phenomenon where you get a great idea and a month later read about somebody else with the same idea. Except they market it and make a million bucks.  Did they read your mind?  No.  We’re all subject to roughly the same pool of information.  The same stimulus.  The same events.  The same background knowledge.  That the same ideas would occur to two or more people isn’t strange, it’s almost inevitable. 

Then there’s the Forgetfulness Phenomenon.  You learn something, time passes, you forget that you learned it and it occurs to you seeming like an original idea.  This may have happened when I discovered

The World’s Best Chocolate Malt

It happened at a resort my parents owned back in the 70s.  We were making malts but  they always seemed to lack a dimension.  Fullness?  Richness?   Some were OK but most were disappointments. 

Working  in the resort we had a commercial kitchen and lots of supplies.   At some point I decided to add marshmallow cream to a shake, filled it with chocolate and malt powder, and the gates to heaven opened. 

Really, I mean, this is the malt that your friends will do a double take for.  It’s rich, it’s sweet, it’s creamy/chocolaty/malty . . . it’s really, really good.  It’s so good that we can’t have it at my house.  Once you start making and eating these things, well . . . you gain weight.  It’s the same thing with triple-chocolate cake (cake mix, instant pudding, chips, and yogurt in a bundt pan.)  Good?  Hell, yes.  But just how fat do you want me?  

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Anyway, here’s what you do:

Ingredients:
  8 oz milk
  Big scoop of marshmallow cream  (1/2 cup?  ¾?  You be the judge)
  Malt powder, 2 huge spoonfuls (1/4 cup? 1/3? Again . . .)
  Chocolate syrup (I judge by the color)
  Vanilla Ice cream  (better have two quarts on hand)

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Set up your blender.  Pour in the milk.  Drop in the huge scoop of marshmallow cream and blend immediately.  (Put on the lid first, or you’ll be wearing a portion of this but don’t delay)  The cream should dissolve in the milk but if it gets too cold there may be problems.
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While the blender is still running drop in the malt powder and squeeze in the chocolate syrup.  

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Then start scooping in the ice cream.  Keep at it until the blender A) is full, or B) chokes and won’t take any more. 

Pour into huge glasses and serve with a strong straw.  

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If you’re the sort that likes to keep guests mystified, you can do this in the kitchen and when, amazed, they ask how you did it, you can simply reply, “Ahh, it’s just ice cream in milk.” 

It’s OK, not all secrets are meant to be shared.