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Today I met a really nice woman at Whole Foods. She’s going to make scones for her boyfriend for Valentine’s Day, but feels like she isn’t very good at baking so she had a mix to help her. I assured her that making scones from scratch was well within her capabilities and told her I’d send her the recipe, but she was nice enough to check out this (now largely defunct) blog and she said terribly complimentary things about it in an email to me, so I decided to really help her with the scone project and put up step-by-step instructions. 

Let’s talk a bit about baking mixes. I’m against them. I think in large part they’re a scam perpetrated against baking-shy or –phobic people who, for whatever reason, think they can’t bake or are bad at it or that it’s difficult or somehow beyond them. The thing is, most mixes contain little more than flour, leavening, sugar, salt, preservatives, and sometimes flavoring. If you’re going to the trouble of baking, mixing those things together (minus the preservatives, of course) is the easiest part! You’re going to have to get out the eggs, milk, oil or butter, and mix-ins anyway, so why not do a tiny bit more work and be able to say you made it from scratch? As far as I can tell, there’s no good reason not to. You’ll eat fewer preservatives, it’s significantly cheaper, and you can feel smug about baking from scratch. 

Scones are a great place to start if you’re new to baking. They’re easiest to make if you have a food processor, but you can also use a pastry knife. In theory you can use two knives like scissors in place of a pastry knife, but I’ve never had much success with that method and a really high-quality pastry knife costs, like, 12 bucks at Williams-Sonoma and it will last forever. To make scones, you don’t need to do any creaming or much blending – it’s largely just mixing the flour with the leavening, salt and sugar, cutting in the butter, then adding the mix-ins and the liquid and stirring until it looks like dough. There’s a bit of kneading at the end, but it’s not very challenging. Then you just pat the dough into a disk, cut into wedges, bake, and enjoy! Let’s get started. 

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You will need:

2 cups all-purpose flour (10 ounces)
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
1 T baking powder
1 t kosher salt (or ½ t table salt)
3 T sugar
5 T cold butter
1 Meyer lemon
½ cup crystallized ginger


The first thing to do is to set up your mise en place. Make sure you have everything measured out, chopped, and ready to go. This way you won’t have to stop while you’re cooking to look for an ingredient, and you’ll be sure that you have everything you need to complete the recipe. Measure out your flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, and cream.
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Finely dice the crystallized ginger. The easiest way to do this is to cut it into narrow strips, then turn all the strips 90 degrees and cut them again into dice. 

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Zest the lemon with a Microplane grater or a lemon zester or other grater if you don’t have a Microplane. If you don’t have a Microplane, get one the next time you’re out shopping. Bed, Bath, and Beyond sells them for under $15 and you can use one of those coupons they’re always mailing you. My Microplane is absolutely invaluable in my kitchen. I use it for grating parmesan, ginger, zesting lemons, and a myriad of other tasks. 

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Cut the butter into cubes by first cutting lengthwise down the stick, then cutting lengthwise again, then several times crosswise. 

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Put the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder into your food processor and pulse several times to mix it all up. 

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Next, scatter the butter cubes over the flour mixture. Pulse it 12 times (or use a pastry knife), until it looks like this: 

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Now dump the mixture into a bowl and add the ginger and the lemon zest. Use a spatula to mix the ginger and the lemon in. Don’t worry if the zest sticks to itself a bit – you should be able to mix it into the flour mixture easily. The flour will help it distribute evenly. 

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When everything is mixed together, pour the cream into the bowl and mix it up. The motion you want to use is less of a stirring motion and more of a scraping or folding motion. Use the spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl and fold the flour that’s on the sides inward, turning the bowl as you go. If you keep at it, you’ll end up with dough that looks like this: 

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Turn the dough out on a clean counter or butcher block or pirate map or whatever work surface you’ve got. Knead it a bit until it all sticks together and forms a ball. Pat the ball into a disk that’s slightly domed and about 6 or 7 inches in diameter. Cut into eight wedges (like a pizza) with a large knife. 

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Now (or maybe 15 minutes ago) would be a good time to put an oven rack in the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Note: do not use waxed paper. The wax will melt into your scones and it will be terrible. Not that I’ve ever done that, or anything. 

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Place the scones on the baking sheet, then bake for 15 minutes. I like to turn the baking sheet around halfway through so that the scones bake evenly, but it’s not the end of the world if you don’t. When they’re done, the scones will be baked all the way through, golden brown on top, and turning dark brown on the tips. 

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Serve them warm with a thin slice of butter, a dollop of whipped cream, or a spoonful of lemon curd if you have some. I imagine they’d also be good with berry jam. 

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(Seriously, this recipe is so easy a 2-year-old could do it.) 
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This recipe is adapted from an idea I stole from Greg Frost. I met Greg in the first class I took at UW during August of 2002. It was a drama class with a nutty tyrant of a professor who refused to go barefoot even though she made us do so and yelled at me to “just learn to take a goddamn note!” when I asked her a question about a note I didn’t understand. At one point the class was playing some sort of movement game and Greg stood up quickly and whacked my face with the back of his head. I ended up with a HUGE fat lip. Seven years (God, has it really been SEVEN YEARS?) later, I think he’s finally made it up to me with this recipe. It’s very easy to make and is wonderfully crisp and refreshing. Sure, it’s a little more complicated than mixing a can with water – but it’s not something you can find in the stores and it makes a lovely non-alcoholic drink to serve to guests at a barbecue or to take with you on a picnic. And it would definitely take the sting out of a fat lip. 

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You will need: 
1 can lemonade concentrate
1 cucumber
water

Equipment:
Pitcher
Blender
Sieve 

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Dump the lemonade concentrate into your pitcher. Fill the can with water twice and pour into the blender carafe.

Cut the cucumber into pieces, reserving several very thin slices, and place in the blender. Blend until pureed, about 30 seconds. 
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Place the strainer on top of the pitcher and slowly pour the liquid from the blender through it. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, press on the solids in the strainer to eke out all the liquid you can.

Mix two more cans of water into the pitcher and stir to combine. Serve very cold garnished with reserved cucumber slices. 
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Note: This also mixes very well with Midori if you want to punch it up a bit. Yum... 
 
 
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This is a great dessert for entertaining. You should make it a few hours in advance, but it can be served either chilled or at room temperature so it’s pretty low-maintenance. It’s made in two stages: first the crust is baked, then the filling is added and the whole tart is baked again. This is 1/3 of my summer entertaining menu; I pair it with roasted chicken and broiled asparagus with balsamic reduction for an easy dinner that’s sure to impress. Raspberries are in season now so don’t delay making this tart. I’ve adapted David Leibovitz’s Tart Dough a la Francaise to fit an 11” tart pan. The filling is adapted from a Cook’s Illustrated recipe. 

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You will need:

For the crust:
4.5 ounces butter
1 ½ T olive oil
4 ½ T water
1 ½ T sugar
225 grams (7.5 ounces) all-purpose flour

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For the filling:
8 T butter (1 stick)
2 eggs
¾ C sugar
heavy pinch salt
½ T vanilla extract
½ T raspberry liqueur
1 T lemon juice
3 T flour
3 T heavy cream
1 pint fresh raspberries
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To make the crust:

Heat the oven to 410 degrees. Place the butter, olive oil, water, and sugar in an oven-safe bowl. When the oven is heated, place the bowl in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. 
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Remove the bowl from the oven, place on a heat-proof surface, and stir the flour into the hot butter mixture. Be careful as the butter might spatter a bit and it will definitely sizzle and bubble initially. 
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Dump the dough into an 11” tart pan with a removable bottom. When the dough has cooled off enough to touch, press it out into the pan and up the sides with your hands. Dock the dough with a fork (this means to poke small holes into it all over) and bake in the 410 degree oven for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. 
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For the filling:
  
Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a light-colored saucepan, melt the butter and cook, swirling intermittently, over medium heat until it’s brown and toasty around the edges and smells nutty and delicious. Pour the melted butter into a heat-proof bowl and set aside. 
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In another bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the sugar and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Add the flour, whisk, then slowly add the vanilla, liqueur, lemon juice, and cream while whisking. Slowly pour in the butter (it should now be cool enough to touch) and whisk until the mixture is homogenous. 
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Place the tart shell (still in the tart pan) on a cookie sheet. In the tart shell, place the berries evenly. I start in the middle and work outward in concentric rings. 
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Slowly pour the custard batter over the berries, taking care not to pour too quickly lest you move the berries around. Bake for 30 minutes, rotating halfway through. The tart is done when it is set and the filling is golden brown on the surface. Cool for several hours, then remove from tart pan and serve. An 11” tart pan will serve 12, for a 9” pan cut the recipe by 2/3, using one egg plus one white and 6 T butter. A 9” tart pan will serve 8. 
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C’est delicieux!! 
 
Orange Altonius 06/06/2009
 
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The heat has finally broken here in Seattle. We’ve returned to our regularly scheduled programming – overcast mornings, sunny afternoons in the 70s, drizzles in the evening and cooler temperatures overnight. It’s much more civilized and we’ve all recommenced wearing pants. If you’re living somewhere that it’s hot – or even if you’re not – you’ll love this sweet and creamy blended drink.

The recipe is adapted from one given on Alton Brown's show Good Eats. I’ve adjusted the measurements to make a full-blender batch, which serves 4 if you’re feeling generous or 2 if you’re thirsty. 

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You will need:

Juicing Oranges
2 T Powdered Sugar
1 t Vanilla extract
2 C Milk (whole is best)

Specialty Equipment:
Juicer (hand or electric)
Ice cube tray

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Juice enough oranges to get 17 fluid ounces of juice. The number of oranges you need for this will vary depending on the type of orange, its size, and how ripe it is. When I made this recipe to take the pictures it took 10 small ones, but earlier this week I used 8 medium-sized oranges. 
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Reserve 4 fluid ounces (1/2 cup) fresh juice, then pour the rest into an ice cube tray and freeze until solid, at least 2 hours.

When the juice is solid, empty the cubes into a blender. Add the milk, vanilla, powdered sugar, and reserved non-frozen orange juice and blend. Serve garnished with an orange wedge. 
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Once again, my dad George: 

The worst ‘milkshake’ I ever had was in Berlin in 1973.  We were desperate for a taste of home so we stopped at a Wimpy’s Burger.  This was before there was a McDonald’s on every block and the Wimpy’s looked reassuringly franchised.  (Wimpy?  Remember Popeye?  Wimpy was his fat sidekick who would obsequiesly snivel, “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday, for a hamburger today.”  Anyone under 50 may have to Wiki that.)  Anyway, somebody thought that would be a good basis for a burger restaurant and franchised it.  And the burgers might have been OK, I don’t really remember.  What I do remember is that the milk shake came out in a glass.  And it was milk, shaken.  We tasted it again.  It was just milk with bubbles that could only have come from vigorous shaking.  All we could visualize was the night staff standing in the back, poring over a German-English dictionary, shrugging, and shaking some milk for all they were worth.   

Let’s be honest, I steal most of my recipes.  I think we all do.  How many people actually make up something new?  Not many, I’d guess.  (Of course, there was my highly original Pickled Beet Whipped Cream, which, contrary to the scornful derision of my family, wasn’t that bad.) 

Aunt Joyce, a master cook herself, once told me that there were no secrets.  Everything was in a cookbook somewhere.  I mean, with 6 billion people on the planet eating two or three meals a day, that’s a lot of food and people talk.  

But every so often I think I come up with something myself.  Now, this may be a nice bit of self-delusion.  There’s a phenomenon where you get a great idea and a month later read about somebody else with the same idea. Except they market it and make a million bucks.  Did they read your mind?  No.  We’re all subject to roughly the same pool of information.  The same stimulus.  The same events.  The same background knowledge.  That the same ideas would occur to two or more people isn’t strange, it’s almost inevitable. 

Then there’s the Forgetfulness Phenomenon.  You learn something, time passes, you forget that you learned it and it occurs to you seeming like an original idea.  This may have happened when I discovered

The World’s Best Chocolate Malt

It happened at a resort my parents owned back in the 70s.  We were making malts but  they always seemed to lack a dimension.  Fullness?  Richness?   Some were OK but most were disappointments. 

Working  in the resort we had a commercial kitchen and lots of supplies.   At some point I decided to add marshmallow cream to a shake, filled it with chocolate and malt powder, and the gates to heaven opened. 

Really, I mean, this is the malt that your friends will do a double take for.  It’s rich, it’s sweet, it’s creamy/chocolaty/malty . . . it’s really, really good.  It’s so good that we can’t have it at my house.  Once you start making and eating these things, well . . . you gain weight.  It’s the same thing with triple-chocolate cake (cake mix, instant pudding, chips, and yogurt in a bundt pan.)  Good?  Hell, yes.  But just how fat do you want me?  

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Anyway, here’s what you do:

Ingredients:
  8 oz milk
  Big scoop of marshmallow cream  (1/2 cup?  ¾?  You be the judge)
  Malt powder, 2 huge spoonfuls (1/4 cup? 1/3? Again . . .)
  Chocolate syrup (I judge by the color)
  Vanilla Ice cream  (better have two quarts on hand)

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Set up your blender.  Pour in the milk.  Drop in the huge scoop of marshmallow cream and blend immediately.  (Put on the lid first, or you’ll be wearing a portion of this but don’t delay)  The cream should dissolve in the milk but if it gets too cold there may be problems.
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While the blender is still running drop in the malt powder and squeeze in the chocolate syrup.  

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Then start scooping in the ice cream.  Keep at it until the blender A) is full, or B) chokes and won’t take any more. 

Pour into huge glasses and serve with a strong straw.  

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If you’re the sort that likes to keep guests mystified, you can do this in the kitchen and when, amazed, they ask how you did it, you can simply reply, “Ahh, it’s just ice cream in milk.” 

It’s OK, not all secrets are meant to be shared.  

 
Fattet Hummos 05/19/2009
 
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This recipe was meant to be my entry for Thursday Night Smackdown's Cheap-Ass Monday: May. Then I didn't update for 2 weeks. Oops. 

For more information about the cost breakdown, please see this post

I first encountered this dish when I was taking a Middle Eastern cooking class. It’s incredibly easy to make. There are a few different parts, but each is simple and well within the capabilities of even the most recipe-dependent, can’t-boil-water dunce in the kitchen.

Adapted from Chef Shannon Herman. 

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You will need:
2 cans garbanzo beans
4 cups chicken broth (use homemade if you have it)
1 head garlic plus 4 cloves
2 bay leaves
2 cups greek-style yogurt
bunch mint leaves
¼ cup pine nuts
½ cup feta cheese
2 pita or flat breads

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Method:

Drain and rinse the garbanzo beans. Peel the head of garlic and cut off the bottom of each clove. Put the beans, garlic, chicken broth, and bay leaves into a large pot and cook uncovered over low heat (simmer – do not boil) for 1-2 hours, until the beans are soft when squished but continue to hold their shape when left alone. 
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Mince 4 cloves of garlic and the mint. Reserve 1-2 tablespoons of mint, then mix the minced garlic, mint, and yogurt with 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil. Set mixture aside. 
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In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts until they are slightly browned and smell really good. Remove from heat and set aside. 

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Set up 4 bowls. Tear the pitas into bite-size pieces and divide between the bowls. Using a spatula, spread ¼ of the yogurt mixture over the pita in each bowl. 
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Ladle the garbanzo beans, broth, and garlic over the pita and yogurt. 
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Sprinkle each bowl with pine nuts, then crumble the feta and divide equally between bowls. Garnish with reserved mint and serve immediately. 
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Salsa Verde 04/30/2009
 

This is another of Nadine’s recipes. It’s quick and easy – basically you just throw all the ingredients into a food processor and pulse. It’s a great alternative to tomato-based spicy salsa for people who don’t deal with hot and spicy food well. It has a wonderfully fresh flavor and a beautiful bright green color that will perk up your tacos and tortilla chips. 


You will need:
  • about 1 lb tomatillos
  • ½ white onion
  • ½ bunch cilantro
  • 5-6 cloves garlic
  • 1 anaheim pepper
  • 1-2 tsp cumin
  • juice of 2 limes
  • heavy pinch salt
  • 2 T white wine vinegar 

Remove the outer papery husks from the tomatillos and cut each one in half. Remove the seeds and ribs from the pepper and cut into pieces. Remove the papery skin from the garlic. Wash the cilantro and pick off the leaves. Slice the onion into medium pieces. 

Place the onion, garlic, pepper, cilantro, lime juice, salt, vinegar, and cumin in a food processor fitted with a steel blade and pulse until it’s cut into small bits.


Add the tomatillos and process until they’re mostly pulverized. Taste for seasoning and add whatever you think it needs more of to be delicious – lime juice, cumin, salt, vinegar, etc. Serve with tacos, tortilla chips, enchiladas, or whatever floats your boat. 

 
 

This sauce is a lot healthier than many creamy sauces because it’s largely yogurt rather than mayo. It’s great with tacos of all sorts, but I think it would also be lovely with french fries or oven-baked potato wedges. It has a wonderful smokey flavor and a moderate heat that will perk up whatever you pair it with.


You will need:
  • ½ cup Greek-style yogurt
  • 2 T mayonnaise
  • 1 t adobo sauce, from a can of chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

Method:
Place all ingredients in a medium bowl. Mix. Keeps well in the fridge, but will need to be stirred before use. 

 
 

I’m always excited when asparagus arrives in the grocery stores and farmers market stalls in the spring. When I was a kid I thought that I hated asparagus, but I discovered a few years ago that asparagus is DELICIOUS and I just didn’t like the way my parents prepared it: boiled and served plain. Yeesh.

Fortunately, it’s easy to make delicious asparagus in about the same time that boiling it takes, and the end result will be both tastier and more nutritious – cooking vegetables in water leeches out vitamins. 


You will need:
  •1-2 bunches of asparagus
  •2 tablespoons butter
  •1 tablespoon olive oil
  •1-2 shallots, minced
  •1 tablespoon lemon juice
  •1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
  •1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1-2 tablespoons capers, drained

Begin by washing your asparagus, then snapping off the tough ends. Chop or snap each spear into 2” pieces.

In a skillet or sauté pan, melt the butter and heat the olive oil. When the fat is hot but not smoking, add the shallot and soften for about 1 minute.

Add the asparagus to the pan and stir. Cook over medium-high heat until the asparagus bright green and tender-crisp. Add the lemon juice and the mustard and stir. Cook for about 30 more seconds, then add the dill or capers and stir again. Serve immediately. 

To veganize, replace the butter with olive oil. 

 
 

Rhubarb is often the first fruit available in the spring. It has a wonderful tart flavor and a beautiful pink color that is fresh and vernal. Though the flowers of the plant are toxic, the stalks are delicious. This tart really highlights the flavor of the rhubarb and is easy to throw together. It’s wonderful fresh out of the oven or served at room temperature and makes a good accompaniment to good vanilla ice cream. 


You will need:
  • 2 large stalks rhubarb
  • 1 sheet puff pastry
  • ½ cup sugar
  • juice of 2 lemons
  • 6-8 strawberries (optional) 

Begin by defrosting the puff pastry. I buy mine at Trader Joe’s where it comes in a square sheet, but at most grocery stores it is sold in a narrower and thicker box and the sheets inside are folded in thirds. To defrost, place the sheet on the counter for 15 to 30 minutes, turning over if the bottom is soft and the top is still frozen. 

While the pastry is defrosting, prepare the rhubarb. Begin by washing each stalk and cutting off the top and bottom. Turn the stalk on its side so that the convex part is facing sideways and you’re balancing the rhubarb on its edge. Using a VERY SHARP knife, cut the rhubarb into 1/8” slices at a 45 degree angle. The pile on the left was cut with a dull knife, and the pile on the right was cut with a sharp knife. Note that the rhubarb cut with the sharp knife is neater and the pile on the left is almost shredded. 

Juice the lemons and mix the juice with the sugar. Toss the rhubarb with the juice and sugar and let sit for at least 10 minutes. While the rhubarb is macerating, prepare the pastry. 


(Sorry for the blurry photo.) 

By now the pastry should be defrosted. If you have the kind that is folded in thirds, unfold it, taking care not to crack it along the fold. Use your fingers to gently press the pastry back together along the fold lines, but do not knead it. Cut the pastry in half longitudinally, then roll out on a well-floured surface to 2/3 to ½ its original thickness. 

Using a paring knife, score the pastry about ½ inch from the edges all the way around. Use a fork and poke holes in the pastry inside the box you just drew with the knife. This is called docking the crust, and it will prevent it from puffing up where you’ve poked holes. Do not poke holes in the outer edge. 

Lay the rhubarb out on the pastry just inside the score line, slightly overlapping pieces. Use about half the rhubarb. Repeat with the second piece of pastry. Place both tarts on a baking sheet lined with parchment and bake in a 400 degree oven for 30 minutes, or until the tart is lovely and golden brown around the edges and the bottom of the tart is also golden brown if you lift it up carefully to have a peek underneath. 

Best served warm with vanilla ice cream, but is also good room temperature for breakfast the next morning. 

Optional strawberry variation: slice strawberries into pieces, and alternate with the rhubarb when layering. There is no need to macerate the strawberries in the juice and sugar as they’re sweet already. Bake just as for original tart.