Emily's Hot Dish

Last week when we were at Whole Foods, we noticed that organic zucchini and yellow squash had returned. Granted, they were grown in California and Mexico and normally I would prefer to buy local and in-season produce, but it's been a long, cold, grey winter and we were ready for a taste of spring. And also bacon.

I had just watched the squash episode of Jamie at Home and couldn't wait to make his carbonara again. That show is straight-up food porn: close-in shots of him tenderly handling produce, tossing things together, and finally the money shot when he unloads the creamy, steaming mixture into an eagerly waiting serving dish. I made the carbonara last fall when his book first came out with zucchini at the very end of its season and it was incredible, so I thought it would be a good inaugural recipe for this site. It's best with small and tender zucchini, but if all you have are the gigantic ones you can make do by scraping the seeds out and cutting them into smaller pieces. 

You will need: 
  ● 1 pound penne (I used whole wheat)
  ● 4 slices thick-cut bacon
  ● 4 egg yolks
  ● 6 small summer squash - about 2 pounds in all
  ● ½ cup heavy cream or half and half
  ● A few sprigs fresh thyme
  ● 1-2 ounces good-quality parmesan cheese
  ● About a tablespoon of olive oil
  ● Salt and pepper

Because this recipe comes together pretty quickly toward the end, I think it's best to prep everything at the beginning so that it's all handy and ready to go when you need it. There are three main components to this dish: the pasta, the zucchini/bacon, and the sauce. For the pasta, put a large pot (ideally this pot holds a gallon of water with some room to spare) of heavily salted (like, at least 2 tablespoons) water on to boil. While the water is heating, we'll prep the other two components. Don't put the pasta in to cook until everything is cut up and ready to go. To make the sauce, you should first separate the egg yolks from the whites. 

The best way to do this is a point of contention in our house.  

The correct way is to tap the egg firmly on a flat surface such that it cracks. 

Then, empty the entire egg into a clean hand positioned over a bowl, sink, or compost bucket. 

With your fingers slightly separated, jiggle the egg gently so the white slips between your fingers and the yolk remains in your hand. Deposit the yolk into a medium bowl and repeat with the remaining eggs. After you have separated the yolks, grate the parmesan cheese.

I prefer to use a Microplane grater. It creates a puffy mound of finely grated cheese that will melt quickly and uniformly. 

Next, mix about half the cheese with the egg yolks and the cream. Set this mixture aside while you prep the zucchini and bacon. 

Cut the top and bottom off the squash. Cut each in half longitudinally, then slice each half at a 45° angle about ³⁄₈of an inch thick. Each piece should be about the same size and shape as your penne.  

Cut the bacon equatorially into ¼ inch pieces. It’s easiest to do this if the bacon is quite cold – go ahead and stick it in the freezer for 10 or 15 minutes first. 

Remove all the leaves from the thyme. 

In a large skillet, heat a small amount of olive oil. When the skillet is hot and the oil is shimmering, add the bacon. 

At this point your water should be boiling, so go ahead and put your pasta in a cook for the length of time on the package. 

When the bacon is cooked through and crispy, add the squash to the pan. Stir it frequently. 

Cook it until it is soft with some brown spots. Add the thyme. 

While the zucchini is cooking, get your colander ready to drain. I like to put a measuring cup in the colander so that I remember to reserve some of the pasta cooking water. 

At this point your pasta should be cooked through. Reserve ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain. Quickly add the pasta to the skillet with the zucchini, bacon, and thyme and remove from the heat. Stir to combine, then add the cooking water and egg mixture. Toss to combine and serve with the remaining parmesan sprinkled on top.  

Leave a Reply